Author Topic: Nylon printing  (Read 16106 times)

vincent

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Nylon printing
« on: December 23, 2016, 09:49:40 AM »
Hello,

I just installed a Z-temp (and Z-bed), i hoped it would help to print with nylon (Taulman bridge) material...

Does someone as good results with this material? the raft print very fine, then few minutes later, the wire stop coming (the motor wheel slide on the nylon wire)
The raft easily come out from the heat-bed, but is impossible to remove from the printed part.

Am i losing time when trying to use nylon? or someone did manage to obtain good results?

Thank you for your answers.

vincent

Julia Truchsess

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2016, 08:55:57 PM »
I've printed with Bridge, but I don't like it. It prints nicely at 245º but layer adhesion is terrible - parts just fall apart. 618 and 645 are much stronger but they warp a lot, depending on your part's geometry. My favorite by far is PCTPE - it's more flexible than the others and you can make "living hinges" with it, but in thicker sections with infill it can be quite stiff. Prints great at 235º, doesn't warp much, and support comes off relatively easily.
"Character is doing what's right when nobody's looking." - JC Watts Jr

vincent

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2016, 09:51:31 PM »
Thank you for yout answer  :)
So i will try PCTPE nylon now, i hope it wont be too flexible.
Do you change the distance between the extruder and the heat bed ? (about 0.5mm)
Or do you keep it standard?
im trying to print the attached piece.

Julia Truchsess

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2016, 07:16:51 AM »
No need to increase the initial layer height with PCTPE, you can leave it standard.
"Character is doing what's right when nobody's looking." - JC Watts Jr

vincent

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2016, 10:34:00 AM »
thank you for your answer  :) , i will try it and post the picture of the result.
would you advice ABS settings or glass stettings?  :-\

Julia Truchsess

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2016, 11:10:58 AM »
I use the ABS profile for everything just to minimize the number of variables. It's possible that other profiles might better, but it would be time-consuming to test - if you make any discoveries, please let us know! :)
"Character is doing what's right when nobody's looking." - JC Watts Jr

vincent

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #6 on: December 26, 2016, 04:17:44 PM »
Well, im back with my nylon "bridge" as PCTPE not yet received.
I don't know why, but it work better with "Z-GLASS" than Z-ABS or Ultrat, the glass parameter is the only one able to finish the raft.
then, if you want to print more than the raft ::), once again i don't know why, but it works better if you increase the temperature about 10 to 20 deg. ???
On attached pictures i share you my experience, on the 3rd picture, you can see difference between +20° (bottom) ans +10°C (top).
+20°c : the wire never stop coming
+10°c : once printing stoped at half, but maybe it is because i forgot to turn the fan on 0 ?

the result at +10° is not so bad, and i can't brake the printed part (5mm thickness) by hands.

i will try it on more complicated piece tomorrow !

EDIT : I just tried, but as the bed doesn't heat, the raft unstick from the bed. (even if Z-mon on "3")
« Last Edit: December 27, 2016, 04:43:01 AM by vincent »

vincent

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2017, 07:25:39 AM »
Hello,
I tried with the PCTPE nylon (235°c), but it warp like bridge (or maybe a few less) and is a little bit too flexible for my application.
in fact, the raft unstick from the bed so the part twist...

vincent

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2017, 10:55:48 AM »
Working fine with PCTPE 235-245°c
here a M4 screw

Julia Truchsess

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Re: Nylon printing
« Reply #9 on: January 05, 2017, 10:56:57 AM »
 :)
"Character is doing what's right when nobody's looking." - JC Watts Jr