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PLA raft removal

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darkstar:
Hello,

New customer here. I have a quick question regarding the removal of rafts from PLA prints in general. I did a print overnight using eSun PLA PRO and the v2 nozzle, using the provided shim (see pictures). And while the print came out ridiculously good at 0.9 layer height, the raft doesn't want to crisply break off like I expected.

I just realized that I used Z-suite 1.7.0, and that 1.6.x is the supported version. Anyways, it works great with the Z-ABS profile and -40 on the z-temp.

Any raft tips appreciated, thanks.

Padraicsdad:
By using -40℃ on the Z-Temp you printed at ~ 235℃ (Zortrax's Z-ABS setting is nominally 275℃, higher at startup). That's pretty hot for PLA, so hot I'll be surprised if you can remove that raft at all... without shedding blood.

eSun recommends a print temp of 190℃ to 210℃, which would be -85℃ to -65℃ on the Z-Temp. Suggest you give that a try and see how it works.

PS -  I don't know how typical this is but I found my M200 prints PLA best at the low end of recommended settings, at least if I want to get the rafts off. Please note that my findings are using Julia's ZT-HE hotend. I have no experience using Z-Temp with the V2. 

darkstar:
Hi,

I had to dial up the temp a bit here on the v2 nozzle to avoid extruder clicking. I was able to get the raft off with a chisel but it definitely wasn't ideal. I may take a look at the zt-he as perhaps dialing up the temp so much to get it flowing well is a double edged sword in that the raft bonds way too well.

Does the ZT-HE still permit the printing of the native zortrax materials at the temps beyond 260C?

Padraicsdad:
Yes, it does. That said, here's some add'l info:

The ZT-HE contains a short length of PTFE tubing, which in theory limits its use to around 250℃. I say in theory because some users have run it well above that level for extended periods. I'm one of them and I haven't yet experienced a real failure. I did change my tubing once, just to see how it looked. One end was somewhat crispy but despite that it was still working fine. I saw no crispy bits in my prints or other anomalies and it was still pretty easy to remove the PTFE tubing with a drill so no harm, no foul. Since changing the tubing I have put another 150 to 200 hours on it at Z-ABS temperatures and all seems normal. This time I'm going to wait 'til it tells me before I change it.

BTW, I find I can change the hot-end in about five minutes, even with the double fan mod that gets in the way, requiring removal of the fans. So if the tubing concerns you just use the ZT-HE for PLA, etc. then swap in the V2 for printing Z-materials. The ZT-HE is really great for PLA and similar but I think the V2 prints Z-materials with less stringing and blobs anyway so I use it for that. Or, just use the ZT-HE for everything and don't worry. Changing the tubing only adds a couple of minutes to a hot-end swap and PTFE tubing is cheap so it's really NBD.   

Lastly, and here's where I begin to sound like a Z-Temp reseller (I'm not), give the Z-Sense a look. It not only lets you skip the whole shim thing but I find it also gives me full control of bed adhesion when printing Z-materials. When a part is large and thin and I know I'll need good adhesion to avoid warping, I set the gap very small and live with the struggle of prying the part from the bed. With parts that aren't likely to warp I open the gap and the prints pop right off.

Good luck.

Jeff

darkstar:
Cool, thanks for the additional info and I'll check out Z-sense. Regardless of the raft thing, I'm amazed at how flawlessly this stuff is printing by simply only fiddling with the temperatures.

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