PolyMax raft removal

[MikeHenry]

I ran my first prints with PolyMax yesterday and the raft seems much more difficult to remove than Z-ABS - are there settings or procedures that can be used to improve this?

I'm using a Rev 2 M200 with:

- FW 1.0.3,
- Zsuite 1.0.5.2,
- the 2015 Z-Temp with a 22k resistor on the bed switch
- ZT-HE with 0.3 mm nozzle
- Bed heating off
- No shim
- (-80) Z-Temp offset on Z-ABS sliced file at 0.19 µ (I think)
- Orange PolyMax (I also have red and black that can be tried if color makes a difference.)

So far, I've tried printing a filament clip, and a little 2.25 D x4 W x 2.25-in H open box.  The raft on the box seemed to be a little easier to remove about 12 hrs after printing but didn't want to budge right after printing.  The raft was pretty easy to separate from the print bed.

[Julia Truchsess]

Yes, raft removal from Polymax can be challenging. You don't mention fans - 100% or Auto fan, and dual fans, might help. You have to somehow manage to get a toehold between the part and raft, either by twisting or digging with a chisel. Once you can get the edge of a  good sharp scraper under there, put the part against a bench hook or other fixture so you can give the scraper a hard whack - often it will all pop off in one piece or something close to it.

[MikeHenry]

Thanks - I was using dual fans at 100%.  Is it possible that a shim would help, maybe less than the 0.5 mm shim included with the Z-Temp?  How about raftless printing (with ZSuite 1.4.1)?  I managed to get all but one small piece of the raft off of the 2-1/4x4 open box after waiting a few more hours but that was probably due more to finding the magic spot than anything else.  I'll be trying some Octave PLA black right after a longer filament spool holder gets printed.  The PolyMax print itself looks really good so it would be nice to get this working reliably. 

It probably doesn't make a difference, but it looks like my CPU fan has partially or completely failed.  That will get replaced tomorrow.

[Julia Truchsess]

A shim may well help make the raft easier to remove, and I'm pretty sure adhesion won't be a problem. I doubt I've ever used 190µ with PolyMax, I would always go for 290µ for strength and speed. I've done some pretty big, flat parts (2 x 4" table leg bottoms) and have always been able to pop the raft off pretty easily with a scraper once I could get under it. Horizontal support elsewhere on a part is probably a different (and worse) story.

[MikeHenry]

Thanks, I'll try 290µ first and then maybe a shim

[paulo]

you could try a pause after the raft has printed ie on 0%. this has helped alot with another similar material for me. This allows the material to cool a little so there is less of a weld when the print layers start.

[MikeHenry]

Thanks Paolo, I'll try that next time I use PolyMax.

[gabuzome]

Does anyone try the trick to put the piece in the freezer for a quarter or half an hour?

For me its ok with blueprint or Z glas material as well as for abs on very small parts.

If it can help! 

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