Best filament for least warping but still glue-able?

[MikeHenry]

I tried to print a rocket fin that is about 150 mm tall, 225 mm long and about 12 mm wide.  The fin is tapered so the best way to print it seems to be with the 12 mm wide face on the platform, making it tall and wide with a narrow cross section.

Z-ABS warps pretty badly on the bottom as might be exepcted, even with glue stick and ABS juice, but the main problem is that it cracks in the X-Y plane about part way up the print.  As I understand it the part will be used in a model rocket that is powered by those Estes rocket engines, so I assume that it needs to have good strength and resistance to delamination and probably decent weather-ability.  It also needs to be gluable with dowels or pins.

I thought I'd try some Polymaker PolyMax PLA but am not sure if that can be glued.

Is there a better filament to try?  Something with a selection of colors would be nice, but that's not a deal breaker.

[Julia Truchsess]

Any PLA including PolyMax would work fine, without ABS's warping and splitting. As for glue-ability, something like Gorilla Glue outta hold it, or epoxy.

[luciancd]

I was told that there is going to be an z-suite update allowing a higher infill very soon.
This could also solve your xy cracking problem.

Lucian

[Julia Truchsess]

I doubt that higher infill will fix layer splitting. If ABS wants to warp, it will find a way.

[z-renegade]

more infill = more massive print structures
the more massive the print structures, the more bending force from shrinkage
the more bending force, the more splitting / warping

shrinkage always occurs, no slicer version ever will cure your objects design

try less infill or less shrinking filament or adjust your design or a combination of all.

[Julia Truchsess]

try less infill or less shrinking filament or adjust your design or a combination of all.

Or just use a material with less shrinkage, which is what Z-Temp is all about

[z-renegade]

try less infill or less shrinking filament or adjust your design or a combination of all.

Or just use a material with less shrinkage, which is what Z-Temp is all about

That's why 'less shrinking filament' was part of my statement. 

[luciancd]

I doubt that higher infill will fix layer splitting. If ABS wants to warp, it will find a way.

Parts printed on my mendelmax  with 100% infill are much more robust than with a zortrax 100% infill. Also why shouldn't the space two layers share with eachother not influence the force needed to separate those two ?

I made a mistake when i red about the xy-crack, i overlooked that tthis happens during printing not after printing. So the 100% infill won't solve that.

[luciancd]

Do you have a window open that could give your print a lot of fresh air ?

[MikeHenry]

Lots of replies since I last checked this thread - thanks!

Julia - I'll try the PolyMax PLA as soon as it gets here.  Would Polysmooth be an option here?  I'm also wondering if that can be glued with IPA "juice" but I suppose Gorilla Glue or epoxy would work there too.

I was using light infill on the ABS and even tried that with mesh, which gave an interesting effect.  The sides (with mesh) shrunk inward, much like the fabric on the Wright airplane and also cracked badly.  I wasn't really expecting it to work, but I have tons of Z-ABS so it was worth a shot.

No drafts in the room but the printer is in the basement and it's probably about 19-20 °C there, due to air conditioning and cool air sinking to the low spot of a structure.  I'm using GadgetToGo's sides.

[Julia Truchsess]

Yes, Polysmooth can be solvent-welded to itself with IPA, but aren't model rocket tubes generally made of cardboard? They were when I was a kid anyway

[MikeHenry]

Cardboard might be a better approach but this guy contacted me recently and asked me to look into 3D printing his booster design.  I only have part of it, but it looks like it will be pretty large compared to the Estes rockets I remember in my youth.  The footprint including the booster and 3 fins fit inside a circle with a diameter of nearly 2 feet.  I haven't broached the subject with him yet, but wonder if weight will be an issue.  If it were feasible it would be better done on a printer much larger than the M200, maybe the Raise N2?  Of what he's sent so far, a work envelope of 8 x 9 x 12 is probably needed, though I haven't verified that.  If anybody with a large printer here is interested in the job I'd be happy to connect you with him.  My thought, though, is that it is tough to make any sort of reasonable money on this sort of print, at least from a hobbyist, which is what I assume this guy is.  I suspect that they tend to be pretty "frugal".  Of course, for all I know the guy is a billionaire and just throws money around.

Good to know about the PolySmooth being IPA-glueable.  I backed them on the Polysher and am looking forward to seeing how the PolySmooth works in preactice as a general filament.

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