Z-Temp products compatible with new Zortrax M200 V2 Hotend and heater PCB?

[MikeHenry]

And specifically is the Zortrax V2 hotend functionally the same as the Z-Temp hot end?

I'm about to replace my heater & T/C as well as the PCB and want to make sure there will be no issues.  The Zortrax V2 hotend looks like functionally equivalent to the Z-Temp hot end so I'm guessing there will be no problems there.

[Julia Truchsess]

The first Zortrax hot end (V1), in 2014, was all-metal. It didn't work with Z-Glass, so they released the V2 in 2015 (I think). The V2 had the same construction but included a plastic (PTFE?) insert at the top of the heat break. The V2 worked better with Z-Glass but still won't print most PLA, flexible, etc., which is why ZT-HE was developed. Its construction is significantly different from the Zortrax V2, but it is certainly compatible with all M200 heaters, thermocouples, and thermocouple amplifier PCBs.

[MikeHenry]

The V2 worked better with Z-Glass but still won't print most PLA, flexible, etc., which is why ZT-HE was developed. Its construction is significantly different from the Zortrax V2, but it is certainly compatible with all M200 heaters, thermocouples, and thermocouple amplifier PCBs.

Thanks for the reply.  Would it be correct to say that ZT-HE would work well with any filaments that the Zortrax V2 HE supports, as well as many that it doesn't?

I'm not married to the Zortrax V2 HE; Zortrax recommended it in addition to the Zortrax PCB that I needed and I ordered both just to avoid issues.

[Julia Truchsess]

The ZT-HE is not really good for Z-ABS or 3rd-party ABS or Ultra-T due to the high temperatures, which will deform the PTFE tube relatively quickly. For ABS I use the all-metal version of the ZT-HE. Nylon is somewhat borderline - I use Taulman PCTPE at 235º and it's OK with the PTFE version, but other nylons at 250 - 260º might be better with the V2. On the other hand, it's pretty easy to replace the PTFE liner and sometimes I do "cheat" and use it for a high-temp print now and then. G-Mass Bismuth is a metal-filled ABS that won't print with the all-metal version (not sure about V2), so I use the PTFE for that.

Due to its much lower friction, the PTFE hot end might be a little "stringier" than the V2 for some materials. For PLA and flex, though, it's definitely the way to go. I can swap an M200 hot end in less than a minute

[MikeHenry]

Thanks for the additional info.  I've been using the ZT-HE with ABS for quite a while with no serious issues, but probably don't print anywhere near as much as you do.  I have replaced the Teflon tubing once and do use separate ZT-HE's, one for Z-ABS and another for pretty much everything else.

I'm a little slower on hot end change outs, maybe 5-10 minutes, but the time isn't a problem for me.

[Lonn]

Hi - following up on this topic:
Julia said: The ZT-HE is not really good for Z-ABS or 3rd-party ABS or Ultra-T due to the high temperatures, which will deform the PTFE tube relatively quickly. For ABS I use the all-metal version of the ZT-HE

Which is the all-metal version of the ZT-HE? I purchased the ZTemp and ZT-HE, which worked flawlessly as directed for PLA, but I'm having trouble going back to using up the Z-ABS / reprinting older models.

I have a V2 HE - do you recommend using that for Z-ABS?

Also, using the Z-Temp, I'm trying to sort out the combination of settings:
• what is the best extruder temp setting for Z-ABS (I've seen different numbers in different places of FOrum, site, and Materials Guide.
• Which setting on bed heater switch should be used when printing Z-ABS
• Fans using Z-ABS with Z-Temp - is anything different given the new config?

[Julia Truchsess]

The all-metal version of ZT-HE looks just like the PTFE version, but it has a circular groove machined around the tube above the block so you can tell them apart. On the Z-Temp web store you're given a choice of PTFE or all-metal prior to adding a ZT-HE to your shopping cart "bag".

For Z-ABS you should use maximum extrusion temp and maximum bed temp. For third-party "generic" ABS, 230C is usually about right, with full bed heat.

The Zortrax V2 hot end should be fine for Z-ABS - that's what it was designed for, and what it works best for.

Optimal fan setting depends in large part on part geometry. I try to avoid "auto" fan setting, because temperature errors can result when the fan(s) come on strongly at the end of a print, especially if using two fans. I typically use 20-40% fan speed with dual fans, but I don't print anything very challenging these days.

[Lonn]

Thanks for quick and thorough reply 

[Lonn]

Since installing ZTemp and bed temp controller, I've needed to reprint some ABS models, but now the same model that printed in ABS before the ZTemp install is lifting off the raft (raft is fine on the bed — makes me think the fans are somehow running more or the bed cooling is effecting things?
• ZTemp is set to 0 offset and bed temp is on 3, which is supposed to be full bed temp.
¿ Are fans effected at all by these installs?
Wishing I could just keep the ZT-HE on and print ABS effectively . . .
Any ideas?
Thanks
Lonn
PS - I just looked at original Z file and fan was on auto, but it was ok previously. I will try at 20%, but am curious if you have any other thoughts / experience.
Very much appreciated.

[Julia Truchsess]

Auto fan tends to wreak havoc on many prints, I avoid it.