Messages

1

General Discussion / Re: Bottom layer stringing

« on: October 01, 2019, 06:42:39 PM »

This is the bottom layer using 1 surface layer. Rough texture is fine as this is on the object interior. A small amount of acceptable stringing. I'd say this is production quality!

This is using ZT-HE and Z-Sense.

2

General Discussion / Re: Bottom layer stringing

« on: September 30, 2019, 03:18:14 AM »

I'm a bit scared to go back in versions. I don't think it will help my cause.

What I've done is reduced Surface Layers for the bottom down to 1, and now the stringing is much less prone to coming off when I remove the support material.

Evie

3

General Discussion / Re: Bottom layer stringing

« on: September 27, 2019, 10:25:14 PM »

I was able to remove the broken nozzle using a screw extractor: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-No-1-Spiral-Screw-Extractor-A96SE61/205469313

I did this while the extruder was hot.

Followed proper instructions for tightening the ZT-HE, and whalla! Back printing again at the lower height setting. Bottom layers are much improved in quality.

4

General Discussion / Re: Bottom layer stringing

« on: September 27, 2019, 03:21:01 PM »

A bit of progress ... I read some other posts by Julia which said that it is normal to have some clicking on the first raft layer. Then I took a look at the ZT-HE maintenance guide, and it turns out I did not properly tighten the nozzle to the tube. I broke a nozzle by trying to remove it (even after it was heated). Then I have been trying to unscrew the metal tube insert without warping it, which I finally achieved by using an adjustable wrench (instead of pliers which I was using before) along with the heated extruder.

There was filament all along the threads of the tube, indicating that the nozzle was not properly tightened. I got some new nozzles which I'll be testing later today.

Evie

5

General Discussion / Bottom layer stringing

« on: September 26, 2019, 03:22:00 AM »

I'm getting pretty good results with Z-Sense, particularly since upgrading to the V2 perforated plate which is thicker (and less prone to warping). I've tried a few different height settings. At higher heights, some layers don't stick together. At lower heights, the extruder clicks and material sputters out, particularly on the first layer of the raft. I played with the heights using quarter turns (0.125mm).

I went with the lowest setting that didn't make the extruder click.

The prints look great on the outside surfaces, but the underside is a different story. The attached image is an extreme example, as I've already removed some of the loose strands with an exacto knife. I was actually getting slightly better results with hex infill and a slightly faster speed (+25%), but there were still several loose strands.

I've tried removing the support while hot and after cooled with about the same result.

So the question is ... is this a height issue? retraction? temperature? Is there a good test print that I can use that works well for optimizing ABS? Here are my settings, and this is with a HEPA enclosure using IC3D Red ABS.

Application version: 2.11.1.0
Estimated print time: 1h 46m
Material usage: 8.52m (20g)
Printer: Zortrax M200
Profile: Last settings
Support type: Automatic
Support: 20°
Material: ABS-based filament
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Layer: 0.19 mm
Quality: Default
Infill: 50%
Fan speed: Auto
Seam: Normal
Outer contours: 0.00
Holes: 0.00
Surface layers Top: 6
Surface layers Bottom: 3
Support Lite: Yes
Smart bridges: Yes
Support offset: No
First layer Density: 100%
First layer Print speed: 100%
First layer Flow ratio: 100%
First layer gap: 0.21 mm
Raft Enabled: Yes
Raft layers: 6
Platform-raft gap: 0.20 mm
Raft Density: 100%
Raft Print speed: 100%
Raft Flow ratio: 100%
Print speed: +0%
Extruder flow ratio: +0%
Top layer infill (%): 100
Bottom layer infill (%): 100
Extrusion temp.: 230
Platform temp.: 105
Retraction speed: 36
Retraction distance: 0.8
Support Density: 4.00 mm
Gap XY: 0.31

6

General Discussion / Re: Replacing a Zortrax Extruder Cable

« on: September 23, 2019, 06:24:34 PM »

Very cool. Turns out you don't even need the proprietary adapter, just a generic cable plugs right in. I'll make sure to add proper strain relief. I'll print out the one in a previous post in this topic. A few of these are nice too:

https://library.zortrax.com/project/zortrax-m200-v4-extruder-cable-holder-extreme/

7

General Discussion / Re: Replacing a Zortrax Extruder Cable

« on: September 21, 2019, 10:56:50 PM »

Wow, my extruder cable failed, and it's just 1 pin that doesn't have continuity anymore. I already replaced it once, so I'm going for the cheapo IDC connector!

On my M200, there is a cable that flips vertically from end to end then plugs into an adapter which makes it go right angle to the motherboard and flips it back vertically again.

Some pins are redundant, unfortunately not the ones at the corner, most likely to get pinched.

These are the 11 distinct pins when looking at the male plug end that connects into the extruder:
            --
A B C DD EEE F G
H I C DDD EE J K

So you can see the ones in the middle are redundant.

8

General Discussion / Re: Support stuck to model (fixed extruder temp too high error)

« on: September 19, 2019, 01:57:14 AM »

Z-sense relieved a lot of frustration, in particular narrowing down the core problem.

Turns out my build plate is a V1, meaning it's only 1.5mm think, instead of the V2's 3mm. They are known to warp, and mine was in such bad shape anyway, so I just got a new V2 plate for $60.

The magnets on the calibration screws were a little worn from over-tightening, so I added a brass washer between the magnet and the top screw.

I also got a bullseye level and put that right on top of the X- and Y-axes, and propped up the feet of the printer until it made those axes perfectly level.

I was then able to do the Auto-Calibration to accurately adjust the 3 calibration screws.

Finally I recalibrated the Z-sense using a sheet of regular printing paper, and it prints perfectly!

9

General Discussion / Re: Support stuck to model (fixed extruder temp too high error)

« on: September 07, 2019, 01:40:57 AM »

So, the thumb screw solution worked for about 1-2 prints, then the height becomes problematic again. It looks like I'm going to need a Z-Sense.

10

General Discussion / Re: Support stuck to model (fixed extruder temp too high error)

« on: September 03, 2019, 05:51:09 PM »

Thanks for your feedback, Julia.

It turns out the problem was my build plate was loose. Those 3 hand screws that you have to tighten for autocalibration were so sticky that I actually had to use pliers to tighten them all the way. But since I did that I can now print with normal settings! Using all defaults and a temperature of 230 works great.

And I am using the all metal hotend. It flows way better than the Zortrax one! :-)

11

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE

« on: September 03, 2019, 05:55:54 AM »

Replaced the bearing which really helped with extruder clicking.

The shorted pins were a problem with the extruder PCB, and the other problem was that the socket that holds the extruder cable end was a little warped, so the cable wouldn't stay in place.

The main problem I have now is that the support material is completely stuck to the print. I was able to improve other aspects of "smushing" by tightening the Z-Axis, increasing First Layer Gap, and slowing/extending retraction.

Temperature seems to be happy at around 245 degrees.

I'm a bit confused as to where to go next, since there is no setting to add a gap above the support material, which I imagine would solve the problem I'm having.

The only other components I can think that would be an issue are the perforated plate and motherboard, although that is a bit out of my budget at this point. Even if there is a hacky solution that would be more ideal for now.

Any ideas or pointers would be greatly appreciated :-)

Zortrax advised to go back to the original hotend, but I'm hesitant to do that since it's so crusty and the nozzle is kind of beaten up.

12

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE

« on: August 28, 2019, 12:13:10 AM »

You can see the heat sink in the attached picture which sits right next to the extruder pcb microcontroller. I suppose it's not a direct heat sink for the chip, but I assume it is responsible for dissipating some heat.

I'm using regular ABS from IC3D (and this roll from Hatchbox which is poorly wound). Next I'm going to try PETG.

Turns out my problem is the 3x7x3 bearing. It made a big gash on the metal end of the motor, so I assume it's totally warped. I'm replacing it tomorrow.

Thanks for your help and encouragement, things are coming along bit by bit 

13

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE

« on: August 27, 2019, 03:29:03 AM »

OK, here's an update.

Yes, I realized the extruder PCB already has a huge heatsink on it. Turns out 2 pins on the board were shorted, and Zortrax informed me that they are not supposed to be. I used some solder wick to suck up the excess solder, a knife to cut away the remaining solder, and after raising the temperature so the extruder doesn't jam, it seems to be printing fine!

I'm still curious why the temperature needs to be 275 (that's the default setting in Z-Suite) to not jam the machine when the stuff seems to start melting at 230.

Evie

14

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE

« on: August 23, 2019, 12:47:51 PM »

Yes! I got the top cover to help with the warping problem and prevent odors. One time I forgot to turn on the fan in the top cover, and within a minute of turning it on I got that same error.

Maybe I need to install a fan or some kind or heat sinking right above the board?

Thanks,
Evie

15

General Discussion / Support stuck to model (fixed extruder temp too high error)

« on: August 23, 2019, 04:48:46 AM »

I got the ZT-HE because my ABS was coming out in spurts, and attempting to clean the original hot end tube only made it worse.

The ZT-HE is doing much better, coming out smoothly, but after about an hour into a print it gets the error "011 Extruder Temp Too High"

On successive prints that error can happen earlier or immediately upon starting the print.

I replaced a bunch of parts to try and remedy the error, including the thermocouple, extruder cable and heatbed cable, but still have the temperature problem.

Any ideas?

Evie