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Messages - Julia Truchsess

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General Discussion / Re: Using multimeter to measure temperature
« on: September 08, 2021, 08:03:44 PM »
You need to set your multimeter to DC Volts. The temperature will then be the voltage multiplied by 200. This is detailed in the User Manual available at

At the beginning of the pandemic our laser etch supplier was closed and we had to ship some hot ends without the logo in order to meet demand quickly. This is noted in our web store. Thanks!

General Discussion / Re: ZT-HE All Metal layer too thin ?
« on: July 21, 2020, 09:47:40 AM »
The all-metal version of ZT-HE was developed primarily for those experimenting with materials that require temperatures too high for the stock Zortrax hot end. We use it for Z-ABS as well and haven't had any major issues, but if you're happy with the Zortrax v2, there's no compelling reason to switch, other than perhaps availability of a wider range of nozzles.

The standard ZT-HE with PTFE insert is capable of printing PLA, TPU/TPE, and other low-temp high-friction materials with much better results than the stock hot end.

General Discussion / Re: Replacing a Zortrax Extruder Cable
« on: May 30, 2020, 08:34:36 PM »
Makes sure pin 1 goes to pin 1 and you didn't get it swapped around somehow?

General Discussion / Re: Replacing a Zortrax Extruder Cable
« on: May 19, 2020, 06:22:55 PM »
IIRC those flat-cable conductors are not soldered, they're crimped, and that's the rub - those flat-cable crimps are not very robust. A properly-made IDC cable will last indefinitely if suitably strain-relieved.

General Discussion / Re: Replacing a Zortrax Extruder Cable
« on: May 19, 2020, 10:20:23 AM »
I've never seen a setup with "two ribbon cables". If you're making your own with insulation-displacement connectors as mentioned above, you just need one length of 20-conductor ribbon cable. Paths that need a lot of current (power and heater return) are on multiple conductors within the cable so they can share the current load.

General Discussion / Re: Material change with ZT-HE
« on: October 05, 2019, 08:39:17 PM »
Hi Max,

The standard ZT-HE has a PTFE insert, which is part of what makes it work well with PLA. PTFE starts to breakdown above 240C, however, so it's not great for Z-ABS, which runs around 275C. A lot of third-part ABS, however, runs at 230C, so that would be OK with the PTFE ZT-HE. If you want to run materials that need temps above 240C then the PTFE version is not a good choice and the all-metal version would be preferred.

So the short answer is, no, ZT-HE is not a universal solution for all materials, sorry. I can, however, swap hot ends on the M200 in less than a minute :)

General Discussion / Re: Bottom layer stringing
« on: September 28, 2019, 04:18:05 PM »
Interesting. I was going to suggest trying some older version(s) of Z-Suite. I have no experience with 2.x and use either 1.10 or 0096. As of a year or two ago many people thought 0096 gave the best results, but maybe the more recent versions have improved, I dunno.

General Discussion / Re: Replacing a Zortrax Extruder Cable
« on: September 22, 2019, 08:18:45 AM »
They're in parallel, yes, but not redundant per se. Because the ribbon cable conductors are small, several need to be paralleled to carry the heater current and its return. I've run IDC cables for years without problems, you just need to use one of the many strain relief designs that have been published so that the cable doesn't flex at the connector.


245C is really hot for regular ABS, and the Zortrax controller goes way beyond (anywhere from 10 - 20C) that during warmup and raft laying. I've always printed regular ABS at 230C, and the higher temp is probably why your support is difficult to remove.

Do you have the PTFE or all-metal version of the ZT-HE? At a setpoint of 245C, going up to 260 or so during the raft, the PTFE tube inside the hot end will be damaged over time. The all-metal version is better-suited to ABS.

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE
« on: August 28, 2019, 10:26:26 AM »
That's not really a heat sink per se, more just a mounting bracket. The thermocouple board doesn't generate any heat - it's just an amplifier for the tiny thermocouple voltages. The Zortrax design is not optimal because this amplifier sits on top of the motor, which gets hot, and the board normally operates fairly close to the upper operating temperature of the amplifier ICs.

It's pretty normal for the bearing to scratch the motor front, but replacing the bearing won't hurt. A little-known source of extruder clicking problems is the screw that acts as a shaft for the bearing - the threads wear down and then the bearing doesn't sit straight, which wreaks all kinds of havoc. Try changing that screw, as long as you're refreshing everything else.

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE
« on: August 27, 2019, 09:10:10 PM »
Hm, I don't remember the extruder PCB having a heatsink, but I haven't looked at a new one lately. A solder short is a pretty egregious fault, Zortrax QC should have picked that up!

It's pretty common for "premium ABS" like Z-ABS to print best at 260 - 275; it is basically the same as Up! ABS (Zortrax staff admitted as much way back in 2014), which also does best at 260C. It is mixed with a bit of polycarbonate, hence the higher temperature vs "generic" ABS, which does fine at 230 - 240C.

General Discussion / Re: Extruder temp too high since installing ZT-HE
« on: August 23, 2019, 07:27:54 AM »
Might need to replace the thermocouple amplifier PCB that sits above the extruder motor.

Do you have a top cover on the printer? That can trap too much heat up there by the extruder and cause trouble with the amplifier board.

General Discussion / Re: Help! I'm new to the ZT-HE
« on: August 12, 2019, 08:53:59 PM »
Hopefully that's what we shipped you :) If it doesn't have the groove and it came with a spare piece of PTFE, then it's the right one!

It's unlikely to be the motor. An often-overlooked cause of clicking and other extruder problems is the screw that acts as a bushing for the ball bearing pressure wheel. Over time, the threads on the screw wear down and then the bearing sits cockeyed on the screw and causes grief. Also, the bearing itself can wear out - it's 7mm OD, 3mm ID, 3mm wide.


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