Author Topic: ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?  (Read 10937 times)

ChunkyPastaSauce

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ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?
« on: February 28, 2017, 03:54:01 PM »
Hi,

I'm looking picking up the zt-he hotend and z-temp. I have 3 machines and need the results to look the same across them (I'd consider outfitting all the machines but the cost is prohibitive, plus I'd like to have one machine stock at the moment).

Are there any images available with prints with same model and settings used, using official filaments?

Thanks! 

zen17h

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Re: ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2017, 02:27:54 AM »
When installing my z-temp and zt-he, I did a print (one of the models that came on the SD card) between every component installed. The results all look virtually identical

http://www.z-temp.co/forum/index.php?topic=37.0

Almost 1 year later and I'm still very happy with it and just received the z-mon and z-sense to install over the weekend.

The only issues I have found thus far(which is not really related to the z-temp itself, but playing around with various settings could minimize it):
-Using ABS and then changing filament, a bit always gets stuck in the extruder(it's crushed/melted too thick to be pulled through the small top hole), I have to open it up and cut the last bit off before inserting the new filament. Prints with the ABS are still great
-Using PLA on something with a flat base(a plastic cap for chair feet) results in the raft being almost impossible to remove(Though I did give up before breaking the piece) - obvious solution is to print raftless, but playing around with temperature settings is also likely to help
Both of these filaments are from a really cheap local brand and results are likely to vary with others

ChunkyPastaSauce

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Re: ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2017, 02:46:30 PM »
Awesome information, thanks!

Julia Truchsess

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Re: ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2017, 05:22:46 PM »
-Using ABS and then changing filament, a bit always gets stuck in the extruder(it's crushed/melted too thick to be pulled through the small top hole), I have to open it up and cut the last bit off before inserting the new filament. Prints with the ABS are still great
-Using PLA on something with a flat base(a plastic cap for chair feet) results in the raft being almost impossible to remove(Though I did give up before breaking the piece) - obvious solution is to print raftless, but playing around with temperature settings is also likely to help
Both of these filaments are from a really cheap local brand and results are likely to vary with others

To prevent the jam when unloading filament, pull gently on the filament while it's coming out in order to ensure that it all gets past the gear and holes before it's fully cooled. It's annoying to have to sit and wait for the extruder to heat up, but not as annoying as having to take everything apart if the "blob" gets stuck.

If you print with good PLA at 205º or less (195 or 200º if possible) and no bed heat, the raft will usually come off cleanly. It's also depended on first layer height - if the initial height is too small then the raft tends to get smooshed up into the part. The shim (or Z-Sense) is important for this.
"Character is doing what's right when nobody's looking." - JC Watts Jr

Nagisa

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Re: ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2017, 12:43:40 AM »
-Using ABS and then changing filament, a bit always gets stuck in the extruder(it's crushed/melted too thick to be pulled through the small top hole), I have to open it up and cut the last bit off before inserting the new filament. Prints with the ABS are still great
-Using PLA on something with a flat base(a plastic cap for chair feet) results in the raft being almost impossible to remove(Though I did give up before breaking the piece) - obvious solution is to print raftless, but playing around with temperature settings is also likely to help
Both of these filaments are from a really cheap local brand and results are likely to vary with others

To prevent the jam when unloading filament, pull gently on the filament while it's coming out in order to ensure that it all gets past the gear and holes before it's fully cooled. It's annoying to have to sit and wait for the extruder to heat up, but not as annoying as having to take everything apart if the "blob" gets stuck.

If you print with good PLA at 205º or less (195 or 200º if possible) and no bed heat, the raft will usually come off cleanly. It's also depended on first layer height - if the initial height is too small then the raft tends to get smooshed up into the part. The shim (or Z-Sense) is important for this.

I have problem with unloading too, so I don't unload now, just cut old filament off, insert new filament and load, success rate 100%.  8)

Julia Truchsess

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Re: ZT-HE Before -> After Print Examples?
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2017, 10:04:38 AM »
The new firmware 1.0.6 helps a lot with filament removal because it beeps and waits for you to press the button before unloading. So now you can always be ready and in position to apply a gentle pull force as it comes out.
"Character is doing what's right when nobody's looking." - JC Watts Jr