Z-Temp Forum
Z-Temp Products => Materials Compatibility => Topic started by: darkstar on October 22, 2016, 01:12:34 PM
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Hello,
New customer here. I have a quick question regarding the removal of rafts from PLA prints in general. I did a print overnight using eSun PLA PRO and the v2 nozzle, using the provided shim (see pictures). And while the print came out ridiculously good at 0.9 layer height, the raft doesn't want to crisply break off like I expected.
I just realized that I used Z-suite 1.7.0, and that 1.6.x is the supported version. Anyways, it works great with the Z-ABS profile and -40 on the z-temp.
Any raft tips appreciated, thanks.
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By using -40℃ on the Z-Temp you printed at ~ 235℃ (Zortrax's Z-ABS setting is nominally 275℃, higher at startup). That's pretty hot for PLA, so hot I'll be surprised if you can remove that raft at all... without shedding blood.
eSun recommends a print temp of 190℃ to 210℃, which would be -85℃ to -65℃ on the Z-Temp. Suggest you give that a try and see how it works.
PS - I don't know how typical this is but I found my M200 prints PLA best at the low end of recommended settings, at least if I want to get the rafts off. Please note that my findings are using Julia's ZT-HE hotend. I have no experience using Z-Temp with the V2.
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Hi,
I had to dial up the temp a bit here on the v2 nozzle to avoid extruder clicking. I was able to get the raft off with a chisel but it definitely wasn't ideal. I may take a look at the zt-he as perhaps dialing up the temp so much to get it flowing well is a double edged sword in that the raft bonds way too well.
Does the ZT-HE still permit the printing of the native zortrax materials at the temps beyond 260C?
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Yes, it does. That said, here's some add'l info:
The ZT-HE contains a short length of PTFE tubing, which in theory limits its use to around 250℃. I say in theory because some users have run it well above that level for extended periods. I'm one of them and I haven't yet experienced a real failure. I did change my tubing once, just to see how it looked. One end was somewhat crispy but despite that it was still working fine. I saw no crispy bits in my prints or other anomalies and it was still pretty easy to remove the PTFE tubing with a drill so no harm, no foul. Since changing the tubing I have put another 150 to 200 hours on it at Z-ABS temperatures and all seems normal. This time I'm going to wait 'til it tells me before I change it.
BTW, I find I can change the hot-end in about five minutes, even with the double fan mod that gets in the way, requiring removal of the fans. So if the tubing concerns you just use the ZT-HE for PLA, etc. then swap in the V2 for printing Z-materials. The ZT-HE is really great for PLA and similar but I think the V2 prints Z-materials with less stringing and blobs anyway so I use it for that. Or, just use the ZT-HE for everything and don't worry. Changing the tubing only adds a couple of minutes to a hot-end swap and PTFE tubing is cheap so it's really NBD.
Lastly, and here's where I begin to sound like a Z-Temp reseller (I'm not), give the Z-Sense a look. It not only lets you skip the whole shim thing but I find it also gives me full control of bed adhesion when printing Z-materials. When a part is large and thin and I know I'll need good adhesion to avoid warping, I set the gap very small and live with the struggle of prying the part from the bed. With parts that aren't likely to warp I open the gap and the prints pop right off.
Good luck.
Jeff
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Cool, thanks for the additional info and I'll check out Z-sense. Regardless of the raft thing, I'm amazed at how flawlessly this stuff is printing by simply only fiddling with the temperatures.
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For easy raft (and support) removal you really need to print PLA down at 190 - 205º, and that's not possible with the Zortrax hot end with most PLAs.
Regarding ZT-HE at high temps, I've been pushing it myself lately and printing a lot of Z-ABS at full temp - probably 30+ hours now on one piece of PTFE; it's working fine and I can switch it over to PLA and it still works. I'm sure that if I took it apart that piece of teflon would look a mess, but all that matters is that it insulates and the filament slides through it.
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At that temperature it is impossible to remove the raft, especially on planar surfaces.
Buy the ZT -HE and will change your life.
I use an additional trick, I insert an interruption on Z suite to 0%, wait 1 minute and restart the printing.
But the secret is in the temperature, as you said, 230 ° is too much press as Julia said between 190 and 210° but with Hotend V2 is impossible
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I had to dial up the temp a bit here on the v2 nozzle to avoid extruder clicking.
Have you checked to see how easily your spool of filament rolls on the holder and slides through the tube?
I was having major problems with clicking and poor raft prints with MeltInk PLA+PHA filaments and noticed that the filament was being pulled taught. Upon a bit more research I noticed that the inside of the MeltInk spools have little bosses (protrusions) that seem to interfere with the rotation of the spool on the holder, causing it to hang up a bit. I made up a bushing out of Delrin, which has slippery properties, and that seems to have solved my clicking and filament feed problems with those filament spools.
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Thanks for all the replies.
I took the advice and got the ZT-HE in the mail today. Prints beautifully like a dream come true. The eSun PLA PRO prints perfect at -70C and the raft is easy to remove. I'm not using the shim, but the raft comes off the perf bed pretty easily with a Cricut spatula.
@Julia, I had a Makergear M2 printer with a similar tube in it, and would push it close to 300C temps in it also and it always seemed fine so that is reassuring to hear you say that.
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For information :
I just tried glass setting with a PLA and +/- 0°
The raft can be removed as if it was ABS, and the print are goods for me.
if i turn 10°C less, then comes the "clic clic clic" from the extruder and the wire get locked.
vvv
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For information :
I just tried glass setting with a PLA and +/- 0°
The raft can be removed as if it was ABS, and the print are goods for me.
if i turn 10°C less, then comes the "clic clic clic" from the extruder and the wire get locked.
vvv
Z-Glass setting with PLA, not too hot? What brand PLA are you using? :)
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