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Messages - z-renegade

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16
General Discussion / Re: perforated plate contacts
« on: July 09, 2016, 05:02:30 AM »
I would suggest that it can be caused by the small connectors contacts or the solder pins shorted and being another issue not related to bed switch installation (probably caused by mechanical movement at that time).

I would check for the rightmost solder point of the small connector (viewing from the front) having contact to the middle and left one (being shorted).
If so that has to be fixed, check solder points (I had a shortage from a very tiny bit of solder scratched off by the spatula and staying there) and check the connectors pins.

17
Materials Compatibility / Re: PolyMax Strings between parts
« on: July 09, 2016, 04:50:17 AM »
Thanks for the suggestion.  I usually just re-slice the part if it's important to know.  Since Zortrax decided to go with encrypted G-code, it seems only fair to ask them to provide a way that we check the parameters that a Z-code file was created with.  Of course, they may not have included that info in the G-code so maybe it's a moot point.  If they haven't, they should have but asking about stuff like that is worse than pulling teeth.  At least the pain stops when you pull the tooth but with Z you still have the pain.

Hmm, looks like we misunderstood!?

Z actually IS embedding the slicing parameters in ZCode and that's why you CAN look it up by just opening that ZCode file with Z-suite.
Z-Suite shows the slicing parms used in the bottom line. There has been at least one Z-Suite version that did not show it correct (dunno wich), but most do it right.

And I do not get the point how you can tell the originally used slicing parms by just reslicing the part (kinda memory effect that happens then? :-) )

18
General Discussion / Re: Unload problem, filament get stuck
« on: July 08, 2016, 05:36:11 AM »
I just purchased the ZT-HE and have ran three different color prints all of which I had to disassemble the extruder motor from the carriage in order to remove the filament to change colors. Same issue as JeX2.

I have "gently" pulled on the filament while unloading and it still doesn't extract. This in my opinion is a MAJOR problem. I have never had a problem with the standard HE from Zortrax. I switched back to Zortrax HE and all the problems went away and I changed colors numerous times. Right now this ZT-HE is a 100$ paperweight sitting in its box.

Am i doing something wrong??? Is the PTFE tubing missing in the HE? If so how can I check? Can I visually see the PTFE tubing without disassembling the nozzle from the HE?

Please advise...

I noticed that I have slightly more of that blobs causing some issues when unloading the filament with the ZT-HE. But I never had any issue to get it unloaded at all!
If it is not moving out anymore, use your hand and pull it out while the unload (motor) runs. Do it not gently, use some force, but not enough to tear it off.

Another thing you could try before forcing it: First do a load and then immediately an unload after that. This way you can melt the blob and unload the filament before another one is created.

19
Materials Compatibility / Re: PolyMax Strings between parts
« on: July 08, 2016, 04:55:28 AM »
I'm also staying with ABS slicing in Z-Suite just to be consistent and minimize foul-ups at my end.  It would be nice if Zortrax released a utility to report the parameters used when a particular part Z-code was created.  As it is now, I have old parts saved and no idea what version of Z-Suite was used to create it, let alone what filament and other parameters.  Oops - starting to rant here.

MikeHenry, you could open that old files in one of the newer versions of Z-Suite (not every works though) and see what slicing profile (filament) and basic parms (layers, infill, support) have been used originally.

20
try less infill or less shrinking filament or adjust your design or a combination of all.

Or just use a material with less shrinkage, which is what Z-Temp is all about :D

That's why 'less shrinking filament' was part of my statement.  :P

21
more infill = more massive print structures
the more massive the print structures, the more bending force from shrinkage
the more bending force, the more splitting / warping

shrinkage always occurs, no slicer version ever will cure your objects design

try less infill or less shrinking filament or adjust your design or a combination of all.

22
General Discussion / Re: What i need to order?
« on: June 17, 2016, 03:17:41 PM »
Swasiland is listed, maybe that developer thought it could be the same!?  8)

23
Materials Compatibility / Re: France filament good deal
« on: June 14, 2016, 01:29:47 AM »
http://www.filament-abs.fr/produit/pack-couleurs-10-bobines-filaments-abs/

I did test their filament and found it to be no good. The UL listed one turned out to distribute toxic fumes in the house (it stinks terrible) and the regular ABS for wich I got some samples did not show good print results. I prefer to look for good priced NuNus ABS or PrimaABS on Amazon wich are in the same Range (below 20 Euros / KG without the need to order 10 spools) and provide same or better print results.

24
Yeah it looked great before. This is the test file that comes on the SD Card

Don't have Z-ULTRAT, but could give it a first try with Z-ABS.
Can you share the Z-Code you used?

25
Admittedly, 20mm cubes aren't the most stringent test but if there is any significant difference between the before and after cubes and a baseline cube I printed weeks ago I can't see it.

The issue of the OP is about print quality of a more complex object. It's about stringing / retraction / temp / filament viscosity...


26
I don't know this test file, the files on my SD Card were useless (couldn't be printed) so I deleted them more than a year ago.

You could try to lower the temp by steps of 10° centigrade and try again.

I could give the Z-Code a try but I fear I don't have Z-ULTRAT in my closet (will check).
To me those Z-Filaments are completely useless (except Z-ABS).

27
It was the first filament I ran through it. So both the nozzle and Hot End were new. I didn't see the insulator kit when I purchased the HE and to buy it after costs more to ship than the item itself.

I have an insulator kit, never used it.

What Z-Temp offset and Z-Suite filament did you use?
And if it was zero offset (Z-Temp) and Z-ULTRAT profile (Z-Suite), did this spool print o.k. before on original hotend with same Z-Code?

28
So does the Z-Temp HE make it unable to use official Zortrax filament?

Definitely no, I print original Z-Filaments also (Z-ABS right now).

I tried Ultrat and it comes out like Garbage.

What filament did you print before, how much filament did you purge if it was low temp filament?
Easiest check would be to swap the nozzle (use a new one).

29
General Discussion / Re: Alternative slimmer shim
« on: June 03, 2016, 07:53:54 AM »
Of course you could leave the perf board off but then have to adapt (electrically and mechanically) the connection from the shim to the cable that is connected to the perf boards connector.

I had no mood/need to do that, just used an old V1 perf board.

30
General Discussion / Re: Alternative slimmer shim
« on: June 03, 2016, 05:27:35 AM »
Look at that nice perf board  8)

I always keep the outer edges of the contacts (and center of the middle contact) clean.
They do not have to be treated, the outer ones cannot be printed on, the center (at a 2cm diameter circle) does not need to be treated.

Anyway, I would not use this perf board with a shim, except if it is wired like shown on my previous post.

The reason is, that the shim covers the treated (dirty and a bit higher) areas of the perf board also what makes it lifted in the center, having no contact to the metal area of the center. The nozzle has to bend it down to that area what get's harder if the shim is thicker and allows only for a small area to be touched. If that area is a even a hole of the perf board it's getting even harder.

When using a shim (that is when printing PLA and other filaments that swell) I use an untreated perf board (no slurry, no glue, whatever...).
I instead vary the bed temp (aprox. 30, 42, 55 degrees centigrade with the new Z-Temp bed switch).

If you want or have to use a treated/non conductive bed, consider the setup of my last post.

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