16
RaftAway / Re: Printing to glass
« on: April 12, 2017, 03:22:51 AM »
Brilliant thanks. Off to the shops to buy some hairspray and get funny looks from the shop staff. 
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17
RaftAway / Printing to glass
« on: April 10, 2017, 06:00:46 PM »
Hi guys
I need some tips for printing to glass. I'm now using z sense which is working out pretty well but the bracket is a little flexy. I could do with the model so I could reprint with some stiffening ribs.
Anyway I'm trying to print raffless with pla onto glass so I can get a near perfect hi gloss base.
I've tried a lot of things and have managed one decent print but it's too inconsistent and risky.
I'm normally printing pla with abs profile at -60/-70 with z temp, slowing the print down by 50%, over filling the first layer by 300 and constantly tweaking the z sense height.
Cheers paul
I need some tips for printing to glass. I'm now using z sense which is working out pretty well but the bracket is a little flexy. I could do with the model so I could reprint with some stiffening ribs.
Anyway I'm trying to print raffless with pla onto glass so I can get a near perfect hi gloss base.
I've tried a lot of things and have managed one decent print but it's too inconsistent and risky.
I'm normally printing pla with abs profile at -60/-70 with z temp, slowing the print down by 50%, over filling the first layer by 300 and constantly tweaking the z sense height.
Cheers paul
18
RaftAway / Re: Raftaway 1.1.0 Released, Adds Speed Multiplier
« on: March 01, 2017, 05:06:09 PM »
great news re being able to print ninjaflex! ive had a unused spool for over two years that i try to experiment with but get nowhere.
ive also been playing with the speeds and getting good results from rigid ink pla plus which was previously a bit crap.
ive also been playing with the speeds and getting good results from rigid ink pla plus which was previously a bit crap.
19
Materials Compatibility / Re: Semi flex succesfully printed with hack
« on: March 01, 2017, 05:02:47 PM »
nice hack brett. i tried something similar by re making a slightly bigger gear out of colorfabb ht. it worked for about 2 mins then disintegrated. the principle is there. ive also just read about some success with raftaway and slower speeds which are better for flex filament.
20
News and Announcements / Re: Raft Removal and Retraction Adjustment Software Utility!
« on: February 28, 2017, 02:14:51 PM »
Been trying out the raftaway java software over the past day or so. its beautiful!
i had to do some delicate polymax prints and its super duper. Without this combined with the z temp it would be near impossible.
ive found if i use two layers of kapton tape, leave the central conductive square on the bed open and use the standard shim it works well.
for this job im using 75% speed and 200% on the first layer.
i had to do some delicate polymax prints and its super duper. Without this combined with the z temp it would be near impossible.
ive found if i use two layers of kapton tape, leave the central conductive square on the bed open and use the standard shim it works well.
for this job im using 75% speed and 200% on the first layer.
21
News and Announcements / Re: Raft Removal and Retraction Adjustment Software Utility!
« on: February 19, 2017, 11:37:27 AM »
just discovered latest version of Zsuite 1.8.0 allows control of viewing the raft and other bits
seperatlely but still no control to turn it off. i got a little excited but it was a damp squid
seperatlely but still no control to turn it off. i got a little excited but it was a damp squid
22
News and Announcements / Re: Nanodex of Japan Demonstrates Glass-Wool (not fiber) PP filament using Z-Temp
« on: February 19, 2017, 11:16:49 AM »
hi naoto
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/
these guys in europe do a great variety. You should contact them
thanks
paul
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/
these guys in europe do a great variety. You should contact them
thanks
paul
23
Materials Compatibility / Re: PolyMax raft removal
« on: October 20, 2016, 11:40:48 AM »
you could try a pause after the raft has printed ie on 0%. this has helped alot with another similar material for me. This allows the material to cool a little so there is less of a weld when the print layers start.
24
Materials Compatibility / Re: Strongest material holy grail
« on: October 20, 2016, 11:36:05 AM »
Ive tried colorfabb pla/pha and yes its really strong and prints great with ztemp although it can be hard to remove support. i might go back to it and experiment. ive realised that the latest release of Zsuite has put the pause function back in. ive found this to work well with colorfabb ht and removing the raft.
ive only tried polymax on a small sample with direct comparison to an ultrat print. it failed in a similar way when i tried to break it. it even whited out when stressed.
learning all the time! cheers guys
ive only tried polymax on a small sample with direct comparison to an ultrat print. it failed in a similar way when i tried to break it. it even whited out when stressed.
learning all the time! cheers guys
25
Materials Compatibility / Strongest material holy grail
« on: October 18, 2016, 03:23:46 AM »
I doubt I'm the only one but still have spent countless hours and money trying to find the strongest material. Fit what I generally do the parts I produce are not generally flat and regularly require support so support removal is important.
Materials I've tried.
Z abs. Basic and brittle
Z .ultrat. Best compromise of quality, consistency and strength.
Z pcabs. Really good but only comes in ivory and can split on the layers.
Z petg can be really strong if printed as single part but hard to remove support
Z hips. Pretty similar to z abs.
Colorfabb xt cf - comes very hard with hard material support. Can be brittle. Really good for gears
Colorfabb ht - the strongest material I've found but really hard to remove support and raft.
Poly max- I've experimented a bit but it seems very similar to z ultrat but with harder to remove support
Pc max - no played with enough but has been hard to remove support.
My conclusion after all this is the fundamental weakness is either the layers delaminates through stress or the depositing of material is so good that the material is truly welded but results in hard to remove support.
Before buying the m200 I was quite close to buying the inventure but that has only the one material still. However if the inventure could print colorfabb ht with its dissovable material may well be the best thing ever.
The only other thing is post processing. I've tried baking prints but that dries the material out so much that it is brittle. I've tried chemicals but that is messy. I've thought about boiling parts but not got around to it yet.
Thoughts anyone?
Materials I've tried.
Z abs. Basic and brittle
Z .ultrat. Best compromise of quality, consistency and strength.
Z pcabs. Really good but only comes in ivory and can split on the layers.
Z petg can be really strong if printed as single part but hard to remove support
Z hips. Pretty similar to z abs.
Colorfabb xt cf - comes very hard with hard material support. Can be brittle. Really good for gears
Colorfabb ht - the strongest material I've found but really hard to remove support and raft.
Poly max- I've experimented a bit but it seems very similar to z ultrat but with harder to remove support
Pc max - no played with enough but has been hard to remove support.
My conclusion after all this is the fundamental weakness is either the layers delaminates through stress or the depositing of material is so good that the material is truly welded but results in hard to remove support.
Before buying the m200 I was quite close to buying the inventure but that has only the one material still. However if the inventure could print colorfabb ht with its dissovable material may well be the best thing ever.
The only other thing is post processing. I've tried baking prints but that dries the material out so much that it is brittle. I've tried chemicals but that is messy. I've thought about boiling parts but not got around to it yet.
Thoughts anyone?
26
General Discussion / flexion extruder
« on: August 29, 2016, 04:37:26 PM »
anyone else thought about fitting a flexion extruder? i kinda figure its not easily doable but i was thinking about replacing the idler bearing with a tooth gear to help grip flexible filament. thoughts?
27
General Discussion / !
« on: August 29, 2016, 04:34:43 PM »
thanks julia. i pretty much figured it out soon after and sorted a dual fan straight away cos im so impatient. i had immediate improved performance and control. i love z temp!
28
General Discussion / Re: Do you need dual fans to achived best results with PLA filament
« on: August 25, 2016, 05:37:10 AM »
im now on this same issue. ive tried to eliminate a few 'saggy' issues but its quite obvious two fans are better than one.
i can see there is space for two fans to plug in on the extruder head pcb but what about extended the aluminium heat sink to actually hold the second fan.
this guys set up is very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSQ3X9RAk84
i can see there is space for two fans to plug in on the extruder head pcb but what about extended the aluminium heat sink to actually hold the second fan.
this guys set up is very good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSQ3X9RAk84
29
Materials Compatibility / Re: Semiflex
« on: August 08, 2016, 10:48:16 AM »
hi julia
what software are using here? looks like you have load of control especially with the ability to turn the raft off.
thanks
paul
what software are using here? looks like you have load of control especially with the ability to turn the raft off.
thanks
paul
30
General Discussion / perforated plate contacts
« on: July 05, 2016, 11:19:28 AM »
hi guys
ive installed the bed heat control and afterwards i got a "check perforated plate contacts". i checked through a few forums which mentions the molex connectors. i checked these, couldnt see anything but decided to add some solder nonetheless. No effect. I orderdered a new perforated plate. no effect.
ive taken the base off and checked all connections, removed all the z temp parts but i still get the same error.
Help!
ive installed the bed heat control and afterwards i got a "check perforated plate contacts". i checked through a few forums which mentions the molex connectors. i checked these, couldnt see anything but decided to add some solder nonetheless. No effect. I orderdered a new perforated plate. no effect.
ive taken the base off and checked all connections, removed all the z temp parts but i still get the same error.
Help!
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