Z-Temp Products > Materials Compatibility

PLA raft removal

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Julia Truchsess:
For easy raft (and support) removal you really need to print PLA down at 190 - 205º, and that's not possible with the Zortrax hot end with most PLAs.

Regarding ZT-HE at high temps, I've been pushing it myself lately and printing a lot of Z-ABS at full temp - probably 30+ hours now on one piece of PTFE; it's working fine and I can switch it over to PLA and it still works. I'm sure that if I took it apart that piece of teflon would look a mess, but all that matters is that it insulates and the filament slides through it.

Cicio:
At that temperature it is impossible to remove the raft, especially on planar surfaces.
Buy the ZT -HE and will change your life.
I use an additional trick,  I insert an interruption on Z suite to 0%, wait 1 minute and restart the printing.
But the secret is in the  temperature, as you said, 230 ° is too much press as Julia said between 190 and 210° but with Hotend V2 is impossible

MikeHenry:

--- Quote from: darkstar on October 22, 2016, 03:37:35 PM ---I had to dial up the temp a bit here on the v2 nozzle to avoid extruder clicking.

--- End quote ---

Have you checked to see how easily your spool of filament rolls on the holder and slides through the tube?

I was having major problems with clicking and poor raft prints with MeltInk PLA+PHA filaments and noticed that the filament was being pulled taught.  Upon a bit more research I noticed that the inside of the MeltInk spools have little bosses (protrusions) that seem to interfere with the rotation of the spool on the holder, causing it to hang up a bit.  I made up a bushing out of Delrin, which has slippery properties, and that seems to have solved my clicking and filament feed problems with those filament spools.

darkstar:
Thanks for all the replies.

I took the advice and got the ZT-HE in the mail today. Prints beautifully like a dream come true. The eSun PLA PRO prints perfect at -70C and the raft is easy to remove. I'm not using the shim, but the raft comes off the perf bed pretty easily with a Cricut spatula.

@Julia, I had a Makergear M2 printer with a similar tube in it, and would push it close to 300C temps in it also and it always seemed fine so that is reassuring to hear you say that.

vincent:
For information :
I just tried glass setting with a PLA and +/- 0°
The raft can be removed as if it was ABS, and the print are goods for me.
if i turn 10°C less, then comes the "clic clic clic" from the extruder and the wire get locked.
vvv

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